Decks in Werribee, Hoppers Crossing and the older parts of Wyndham are often twenty or thirty years old, and even decks on newer Point Cook and Tarneit homes can fail early if they were built with too few stumps or plain steel screws. Wyndham's conditions add to the wear: reactive basalt clay that shrinks and swells with the seasons, strong summer sun, and afternoon winds that Laverton RAAF, the nearest Bureau of Meteorology station, averages at 21 km/h across the year. Peak Decking repairs decks across Point Cook and the rest of Wyndham, from single boards to full restumping, and gives a straight answer on whether a deck is worth repairing or is better replaced.
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Peak Decking Point Cook
Most decks give plenty of warning before they fail. These are the signs worth acting on early, before a small repair becomes a rebuild.
A board that feels soft underfoot, gives slightly when stood on, or has deep cracks and splits along its length usually has rot inside or has dried out badly. Rot often starts at board ends, around screws and where boards sit on joists, because water collects there. Cracked boards can splinter and catch bare feet.
If the whole deck bounces, sways or creaks when people walk on it, the frame underneath is usually the problem: joists spaced too widely, loose bolts, missing bracing, or stumps that have rotted or moved. A moving deck is a safety issue, especially if it is raised, and needs inspecting underneath.
Black or rust-coloured stains around screw heads, or screws lifting above the board surface, show fixings that are corroding or working loose. Plain steel screws react with the tannins in hardwoods like merbau and break down, and popped screws are a trip hazard. Re-fixing with stainless steel screws stops it recurring.
Peak Decking Point Cook
Boards are the most common deck repair, and in most cases only the damaged boards need replacing, not the whole deck.
Rotted, split or badly cracked boards are cut out and replaced with new boards of the same species and size. The joists under them are checked at the same time, because rot in a board often means the joist under it is wet too. New boards are oiled on all faces before they go down.
Boards that have lifted, cupped or worked loose are pulled back down and re-fixed with stainless steel decking screws in pre-drilled holes. Cupping usually comes from poor airflow or boards laid too tight, so ventilation under the deck is improved where possible.
New timber looks brighter than weathered boards. Once the repair is done, the whole deck can be cleaned, lightly sanded and oiled so the new and old boards blend. Composite boards are matched from the same range where it is still available. See deck restoration and oiling.
Peak Decking Point Cook
The frame under the boards decides whether a deck is safe. Frame and stump repairs are where most of the real risk sits.
Joists and bearers that sit close to damp ground, or that have water trapped on top of them under the boards, can rot over the years. Damaged sections are replaced or sistered with new treated timber bolted alongside, and joist tape can be added on top to keep water off the new frame.
Old timber stumps rot at ground level, and stumps on shallow footings can sink or lean as the clay moves. The result is a deck that dips, slopes toward the house or pulls away from the wall, and doors that catch on the boards.
Wyndham sits on the western basalt plains, where reactive clay swells in winter and shrinks in summer. Restumping replaces failed stumps with galvanised steel stumps on new concrete footings set to the depth that a soil test under AS 2870 calls for. The deck is jacked back to level, so it sits flat against the house again.
Peak Decking Point Cook
Stairs and balustrades take the most knocks and are the parts most likely to cause a fall, so they are checked on every repair visit.
Balustrade posts often rot at the base or work loose where they were only screwed to the edge of the deck. A wobbly railing is replaced or re-fixed with bolts through the frame, and older balustrades that are too low or have gaps wider than 125 mm can be brought up to current rules. See deck stairs and balustrades.
Cracked or rotted stair treads are replaced, and stringers that have rotted at the bottom, where they sit on the ground, are replaced and set on a concrete pad or footing so they stay dry. Treads are re-fixed with stainless screws, the rise of each step is checked so it stays even, and a handrail is added where the stairs need one, so the stairs are as safe as the deck they lead to.
Peak Decking Point Cook
Sometimes repairing a deck is the sensible choice, and sometimes it costs more in the long run than starting again. The inspection makes the difference clear.
If the frame and stumps are sound and only some boards, a railing or a few stumps have failed, repairing is usually the better value. A repaired and re-oiled deck can give many more years of use. Repair also makes sense when the deck's layout still suits the house and the boards are a hardwood such as merbau or spotted gum, which can be sanded back and look close to new. A good test is how much of the frame is sound: if most joists and bearers are dry and firm, the deck is worth saving.
If rot runs through much of the frame, the deck was built too low with no airflow, or the stumps have failed across the whole deck, replacement is often the better answer. A new deck can also fix design problems such as a step down from the door or a layout that no longer suits. See timber decking and composite decking.
Peak Decking Point Cook
Every repair is priced after a free inspection, with a written, itemised quote, so each part of the work is shown on its own line.
The inspection checks the boards, frame, stumps, stairs and balustrade, including underneath the deck where possible. The repair price then depends on how many boards or stumps are replaced, the timber species, and how easy it is to get under the deck. Restumping and frame repairs cost more than board repairs because the deck has to be lifted or opened up. Larger structural repairs to a raised deck may need a building permit. See deck permits.
Cleaning, sanding and oiling the whole deck after repairs blends new and old boards and protects the timber from the sun. It is quoted as a separate item, so it can be done straight away or later. Doing it soon after the repair is usually best, because the new boards are oiled to match before they weather, and a fresh oil coat on the old boards slows the sun damage that caused much of the wear in the first place.

A visit to measure the house and the yard, talk through boards, layouts and finishes, and then a written, itemised quote.

Drawings, engineering and a soil test are prepared, overlays are checked and the building permit is lodged.

Footings, frame and boards are built and inspected at each stage, the site is cleaned up and the finished deck is handed over.
The cost depends on what has failed. Replacing a few boards is the smallest job; restumping and frame repairs cost more. A free inspection gives a written, itemised quote.
Yes. Damaged boards are cut out and replaced with matching boards, and the joists underneath are checked at the same time.
Usually because joists are too far apart, bolts are loose, bracing is missing or stumps have rotted or moved. The frame is inspected underneath to find the cause.
Failed stumps are replaced with galvanised steel stumps on new footings sized to the soil, and the deck is jacked back to level.
If the frame and stumps are sound, repair is usually better value. If rot runs through much of the frame, replacement is often the better answer.
Plain steel screws react with hardwood tannins and corrode. Re-fixing with stainless steel screws stops the stains returning.
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