A timber deck in Wyndham can go from rich and warm to grey and rough in a single summer if it is left unprotected. Laverton RAAF, the nearest Bureau of Meteorology station, records about 8.5 hours of sun a day in January and a mean afternoon wind of 21 km/h across the year, and that combination of UV and drying wind strips oil out of timber fast. The good news is that most decks can be brought back. Peak Decking restores timber decks across Point Cook, Werribee, Hoppers Crossing and the rest of Wyndham: cleaning, sanding where needed, then oiling, staining or sealing with a finish chosen for how much sun the deck gets.
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Before deciding how to restore a deck, it helps to know what has happened to the timber. Two kinds of wear show up on most Wyndham decks.
Sunlight breaks down the surface fibres of timber, which turns it silver-grey and makes it rough. As the surface dries and wets again with each rain, fine cracks called checks open along the grain. On the open western plains, sun and wind do this faster than in sheltered suburbs. The timber underneath is usually still sound; the damage is mostly in the top fraction of a millimetre, which sanding can remove.
Shaded parts of a deck, and areas under pot plants or furniture, can grow black mould and lichen. Hardwoods like merbau leave tannin stains, and dust blown in on the wind settles into board gaps and grain. All of this has to be cleaned off before any new finish will soak in properly.
Peak Decking Point Cook
Every restoration starts with a thorough clean. For a deck that has only lightly greyed, a good clean and fresh oil may be all it needs.
A timber deck cleaner is scrubbed into the boards to lift dirt, grey fibres, mould and old oil. A brightening treatment can follow to bring back the natural colour of the timber and neutralise tannin stains, especially on merbau. The deck is then rinsed and left to dry fully before any oil goes on. In Wyndham's dry, windy weather that is often a day or two, but in winter it can take longer, and oiling damp timber traps moisture under the finish, so the moisture in the boards is checked first.
A pressure washer can speed up cleaning but can also tear the soft grain of timber and leave a furry, uneven surface if used too close or too hard. A wide nozzle at low pressure is used, following the grain, or cleaning is done by hand on softer timbers such as treated pine.
Peak Decking Point Cook
Sanding takes the deck back to fresh timber, which gives the best finish when cleaning alone will not do.
A deck needs sanding when the surface is rough, deeply grey, splintering or patchy with old finish that has peeled or worn unevenly. Sanding removes the damaged layer and old coatings, so the new oil soaks in evenly and the deck is smooth underfoot again. Lightly greyed decks often only need cleaning.
Before sanding, any raised nail heads are punched below the surface and popped or rusted screws are replaced with stainless steel decking screws, so the sander passes over clean timber. Loose, split or rotted boards are replaced at the same time. See deck repairs.
Peak Decking Point Cook
The finish is what protects the deck from the next summer. There are several types, and the right one depends on the timber, the look wanted and how much sun the deck gets.
Penetrating oils soak into the timber rather than forming a film on top. They feed the wood, repel water, and wear away gradually instead of peeling, so the next coat goes on without stripping. Oils with UV protection slow greying. They are the most common choice for hardwood decks in Wyndham.
Tinted oils and stains add colour as well as protection, which can even out patchy timber, deepen the colour of a pale deck, or refresh an older deck to match the house. Pigment also blocks more UV than a clear oil, so tinted finishes tend to last longer in full sun.
Water-based clear sealers and film-forming coatings give a harder surface, but on a deck in full sun they can wear unevenly and peel, which then needs sanding off before recoating. They suit covered decks better than exposed ones. Deck sealing is quoted by finish type, so the trade-offs can be compared.
Merbau needs its tannin cleaned out and its surface brightened before oiling, or the finish sits on a layer of stain. A merbau-toned tinted oil keeps the red-brown colour longest in the sun. See merbau decking for more on this timber.
For decks facing north or west in Point Cook, where the afternoon sun hits hardest, a penetrating oil with strong UV protection or a tinted stain is usually best, because it can be topped up without sanding. For shaded or covered decks, a clear oil or sealer can last well.
Peak Decking Point Cook
How often a deck needs work depends mostly on how much sun and weather it gets.
A timber deck in full Wyndham sun usually needs re-oiling every six to twelve months to stay protected. Re-oiling on time means a quick clean and a fresh coat, with no sanding; leaving it until the deck has fully greyed means a full restoration. Composite decks do not need oiling at all. See composite decking.
A deck under a roof or pergola, or shaded by the house for much of the day, can often go a year or two between coats. The edges and steps that stick out into the sun wear first, so they can be touched up on their own between full coats.
Peak Decking Point Cook
Every deck restoration is priced from a free inspection and a written, itemised quote, so each part of the work is listed on its own line.
The deck area sets the base cost. A deck that only needs cleaning and oiling costs much less than one that needs a full sand. Stairs, balustrades and screens take more time per square metre than open deck, and tinted stains or premium oils cost a little more than standard decking oil. Two coats are standard for a sanded deck, applied a day apart so the first coat can soak in, and the deck is kept free of furniture and foot traffic until the finish has cured.
Replacing rotted boards, re-fixing loose boards and swapping corroded screws are priced separately and done before sanding, so the restored deck is sound as well as good-looking. Wobbly balustrade posts and cracked stair treads are fixed at the same visit, and any sinking stumps found during the inspection are flagged, because sanding and oiling a deck that is moving underneath only hides the problem for a season.

A visit to measure the house and the yard, talk through boards, layouts and finishes, and then a written, itemised quote.

Drawings, engineering and a soil test are prepared, overlays are checked and the building permit is lodged.

Footings, frame and boards are built and inspected at each stage, the site is cleaned up and the finished deck is handed over.
The cost depends on the deck size, its condition and the finish. A clean and re-oil costs much less than a full sand and oil. A free inspection gives a written, itemised quote.
A deck in full sun usually needs re-oiling every six to twelve months. A covered or shaded deck can go longer.
Only if the surface is rough, deeply grey, splintering or patchy with old finish. Lightly greyed decks often need only cleaning and oil.
For decks in full sun, a penetrating oil or tinted stain is usually best because it can be topped up without sanding. Clear sealers suit covered decks.
Usually, yes. The grey layer is only on the surface. Cleaning and sanding remove it, and a fresh oil brings back the colour.
Yes. The tannin is cleaned out and the surface brightened before a merbau-toned oil is applied.
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